桜鯛塩麹焼き～春野菜あんかけ～【後編】｜ミシュラン三ツ星「祇園さゝ木」｜【和食】【山菜】【菜の花】【筍】【しつらえ】【日本料理アカデミー】【料理王国】【ずばり,日本料理】【お雛様】

桜鯛塩麹焼き～春野菜あんかけ～【後編】｜ミシュラン三ツ星「祇園さゝ木」｜【和食】【山菜】【菜の花】【筍】【しつらえ】【日本料理アカデミー】【料理王国】【ずばり,日本料理】【お雛様】

Today, I will show you a dish using spring vegetables.
[In the previous episode, we had the chef explain the preparation of spring vegetables and sea bream.]
[Watch the previous episode for the details.]
First, it’s important to heat up the pan before greasing it with oil.
If you don’t heat the pan before greasing it, the food will be going to burn quickly.
So be sure the pan is well heated, and then add the oil to the pan.
If you oil it while the pan is still cold, the food will burn easily.
It’s more of adhering than burning, you get it?
How do you say it in standard Japanese?
Camera: Sticking?
Yeah, that! The food burns and sticks to it more easily.
So the key is to heat the pan first and add the oil after that.
Because the fish is marinated in shio-koji, it’s got more sugar content, so it’s more likely to burn.
I’m using slightly more oil.
Just slightly.
This is about the level of heat.
Just around lower medium heat. That is the key.
Now, the pan is already heated, so let’s start cooking.
Make sure to start with the skin side down.
Why? Because in Japanese cuisine, we always serve fish with the skin side up.
The skin must be browned, and the other side should complement that color.
So start cooking from the skin side and see how it goes.
The important thing here is that steam is now coming up.
And we want to make use of it.
We can make use of the steam to cook the fish more quickly.
So let’s put the lid on it and steam the fish.
Cook it while steaming.
That is the fastest and juiciest way to cook fish.
You could grill it on a grid, but if you do so,
the unique fat of sea bream will fall out all the way down, so it tends to be dry at the end.
By sauteeing it in a pan, we can keep the fat inside and make the fish juicier.
Nice color, right? This is the reference.
So, now the other side is still not cooked, right?
The outer is starting to get cooked while we were cooking the skin side.
So for the rest, we’ll turn it over and complement the skin color.
I often teach in cooking classes, and people ask me, "How do you know it’s cooked all the way through?"
"How many minutes should I cook?", "How many minutes should I simmer?" and all that stuff.
It’s not about how many minutes or how long it is. I can only say rough measures.
When it comes to these kinds of fish dishes, the golden rule is to not overcook.
Even if the inside is still halfway cooked, it gets through with the remaining heat.
So the idea is not to cook all the way through in the pan.
Once it’s cooked 80 to 90%, the rest can well be done with the remaining heat.
That is the difference between pros and hobbyists.
The same thing goes with vegetables and everything.
People often try to cook all the way through at the boiling stage, but no.
Do everything in 60 to 70%. That’s the way to go.
Here’s what the back side looks like.
How do you know if it’s cooked? Let’s take this out.
This is all about the experience. First, push it like this.
And it’s kind of resilient.
If it’s not cooked, it just drips out.
Now, let’s just see if it’s cooked through. That’s the easiest.
It’s cooked all way through.
And yet, the inside is still well juicy.
So that is the perfect way to cook.
Hot!
Now the rest of the steps are real quick.
Here is the base dashi for the starchy sauce with spring vegetables.
500g dashi, 10cc light soy sauce.
Just don’t use dark soy sauce. Light one makes it look cleaner.
And a little salt. Today, we went for about 1g.
Lastly, with 10cc mirin.
Look, it’s boiling hard. We’ll first add the bamboo shoot.
But why? Bamboo shoots are often still hard even after boiling, so we’re adding them first.
And what’s next? Next, we’ll add the hosta, which is still raw.
Now, with the butterbur. Although we boiled the butterbur earlier, it’s still not cooked perfectly, so we’re adding it first.
Lastly, add the rapeseeds.
Once you add the rapeseeds, the rest of the cooking can be done quickly with the remaining heat.
So the key is to not overcook.
All right. I’m going to put it in. And it’s in there.
Now they’re cooking really fast, so we need to thicken it with kudzu.
Today, we’re doing it with potato starch instead.
As you can see, the sauce is boiling right now.
The common mistake here is that when adding starch, because the sauce is really hot,
they accidentally add too much of it, so the sauce gets lumpy.
You just need to stop the heat.
If you stop it first, it won’t be as hot.
The key here is to add it slowly.
Now stop it for now.
And add it once more.
It’s slowly getting more starchy, but it’s quite there yet.
The starch here is a mixture of half water and half potato starch.
It has thickened just right. That’s about it.
The perfect thickness varies a lot from day to day.
Today is cold, but tomorrow may be hot.
So the thickness of the sauce plays a big role here.
Because on cold days, the more starchy sauce will make the dish tastier.
But the thick and starchy sauce feels too heavy on warmer days.
So you have to adjust it depending on the temperature on that day.
Now I’m stopping the heat, so turn this on again.
Why? It’s because the potato starch is not yet cooked, so it will thicken back up.
What I mean is that it could get watery again.
So bring it to a boil again to allow the starch to completely set itself.
Now let’s serve this.
Put the sea bream.
And…
Here, pour plenty of starchy sauce over it.
Today, I’m serving with some pepper buds, but I think it goes very well with ginger juice too.
So here, sauteed sea bream marinated in shio-koji with a spring vegetable sauce.
It’s a warm, delicious dish for spring that goes well with drinks.
I hope you will try it.
Camera: I know kudzu is often used in Japanese cooking.
But at home, kudzu is often replaced with potato starch. What do you think is the big difference between them?
They are both made of different ingredients.
Kudzu is hard to lose its thickness, while potato starch easily does.
That is one big difference.
Also, you can’t make tofu from sesame using potato starch. It’s got no power, so you have to use kudzu.
But frankly speaking, don’t use cheap kudzu. It’s not washed well, so it smells.
Fine kudzu is super expensive, so I think potato starch is just enough.
The reason why sauces thickened with potato starch gets watery over time is because of salvia.
When you eat it with a spoon, you will get saliva on the spoon.
So as you eat more, salvia dissolves the starch, and the sauce gets watery.
There is almost no such thing in kudzu.
So those are the differences.
I combined sauteed sea bream marinated with shio-koji with plenty of spring vegetables. Please have a taste.
Taster: Let’s eat.
[This time, one of our staff tasted the dish.]
Taster: I’ll start with the fish.
Chef: Yeah, start with the sea bream.
Chef: Although the sea bream is the star of the dish, the vegetables are also the star in spring.
Taster: The shio-koji is absolutely delicious.
Chef: You can have it with chopsticks
or with a spoon to create a marriage between the fish and vegetables together.
Taster: So let’s try with a spoon then.
Chef: It’s kind of like the strength of sea bream within the gentleness of vegetables.
And I think the dashi is what is binding those together.
Taster: Absolutely.
There’s the bitterness of the rapeseeds, the texture of the butterbur, and the flavor of the dashi and fish combine very well.
Chef: Thank you very much.
I hope you enjoy the spring in the dish.
Taster: I absolutely did.
Chef: Glad to hear that. Thank you very much.
Let me briefly explain. This decoration is called "Unjoryu."
And it is made at Muraoka Seikado.
Mr. Muraoka, who has been involved in artificial flowers in Imperial Court for generations, is now over 80 years old.
So this is a work of art that we will never be able to get our hands-on.
I heard that Muraoka Seikado will end in this generation.
This is one for March of five handicrafts for each of January, March, May, July, and September.
Below that are the hina dolls.
According to what I have heard, there was a custom for generations
that the male dole would be placed on the side near the Imperial Palace in Kyoto,
and the female doll would sit beside him.
But since the Taisho Era,
there seems to have been a trend to place female doll, which is more bright and colorful, on the right side.
This time, we placed the male doll on the side near the Imperial Palace, which is coincidently the left side.
I hear that it is getting more common to place the female doll on the right and the male doll on the left these days.
Camera: I know that in other regions, it is often said that putting hina dolls out for too long will make their marriage late.
Chef: Yeah, I hear that often.
But here in Kyoto, it is more common to put them out for about 1 month.
I know some people are afraid to put them out for a long time because they want their daughter to get married sooner.
But at least in Kyoto, there seems to be a tradition of letting them stay out for a month.
Camera: That is interesting.
Chef: Yeah.
Camera: Thank you very much for today.
If you liked what I cooked for today’s video, please give us a like and subscribe to our channel. Thank you!

料理王国×日本料理アカデミー　新連載「ずばり,日本料理」　第1回【後編】
ミシュラン三ツ星「祇園さゝ木」の佐々木氏による春のお料理です。

料理王国が運営する、「プロの料理人から、美味しい料理を作る知識やコツが学べる料理専門チャンネル」

今回は、京都の「祇園さゝ木」の大将、佐々木浩氏から、春の食材を使ったお料理「桜鯛塩麹焼き～春野菜あんかけ～」を紹介して頂き、春のしつらえ、お雛様についても説明して頂きました。
魚への火の入れ方や、葛と片栗粉の違いなど、学べる知識満載です。

前編の動画はこちら

こちらのお料理は、2022年3月7日発売の「料理王国4月号」に掲載されています。

★訂正
13:08　しつらえのお話しで、「代々、府中の～」と字幕がついていますが、
　　　「代々、宮中の～」の誤りです。

■分量
鯛 4貫
塩麹 適量

・餡
出汁 500ml
薄口醤油 10g
塩 1g
味醂 10g

菜の花 50g
蕗 50g
うるい 60g
筍水煮 70g

■この動画を見て頂いた方へのオススメ動画
★チャンネル内オススメ動画
・鯛のみぞれうどん｜ミシュラン三ツ星「菊乃井」村田シェフ
　https://youtu.be/q2aquQKzmZA
・鴨南蛮そば｜京料理たか木
　https://youtu.be/BoX9RATCUyw
・牛肉の昆布締め｜懐石料理桜会
　https://youtu.be/IEW0YLkW0nc

★他チャンネルオススメ動画
・京料理の未来｜佐々木浩氏
　https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKCMR5U4lhw&t=896s
・真鯛のさばき方
　https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAePo14QKE8&t=1s

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